Today I got the chance to play around with the Adafruit Huzzah ESP8266 Breakout Board I got with my last order.
Getting things connected and functional is always the first step, so I tend to choose the easiest method available to me, whether I will ever choose to use that method or not. This post is an example of that, and the reasoning behind it.
I’m not going to go over the ESP8266 as it’s already been done numerous times. Here’s Adafruit’s Learn module for the Huzzah ESP8266. It’ll walk you through what the module is, to assembling it, to getting it connected.
So, easiest method available for testing this module is a direct connection to a PC via an FTDI Serial TTL-232 USB Cable (pictured below).
Here is is connected to the breakout. No other connections are required. It’s in the breadboard simply to hold it in place. Keep in mind the corresponding pins will be live… meaning, USB is supplying power, ground and TX / RX signals that are broken out to other pins. If you set the pins on something conductive, you could damage the board. Hence why I put it in a breadboard. Besides, we’ll need it in a breadboard for testing it out later!
Continue reading Adafruit Huzzah ESP8266 Breakout
I ordered in a 5″ TFT LCD with resistive touch screen, along with Adafuit’s RA8875 Driver Board for 40-pin TFT Touch Displays. These are just some notes and comments of my experience in getting it all working.
Making the connections.
First thing to make clear is that the driver board from Adafruit DOES have level shifting on it, and can be connected to both 3.3V and 5V systems. Let me also be clear that although it will work with a mixture of voltage signals (as I found out), you should PICK ONE.
- Vin: +3.3V (** OR +5V)
- GND: GND
- 3Vo: NC (** 3.3V out from the on-board regulator)
- Lite: NC (** Can be used to turn backlight off)
- SCK: SPI SCK
- MISO: SPI MISO (** MISO is NOT tri-stated and cannot be used with other SPI devices without 74HC125 or similar)
- MOSI: SPI MOSI
- CS: SPI CS
- RST: Active Low – connect to any available MCU pin
- WAIT: Active Low – connect to any available MCU pin
- INT: Active Low – connect to any available MCU pin (** or INT pin if you want to use interrupts)
- Y+: NC (** Optional, external touch screen controller)
- Y-:NC (** Optional, external touch screen controller)
- X+:NC (** Optional, external touch screen controller)
- Y-:NC (** Optional, external touch screen controller)
Here are the basic connections made for my setup, which includes the RA8875 driver board, a PIC18F46J11 (3.3V) (44-pin TQFP breakout from Adafruit) and an SD/MMC card breakout from Sparkfun. Top right is voltage regulation. 9VDC in, 3.3V out on the left and 5V out on the right. One thing to note here is I had to use a 10K pullup on the MISO of the SD card to get it to work.
Continue reading Adafruit RA8875 TFT Driver Board
This tip comes from a recent job I did for a new client. Well, the tip is not so much from the job, but what transpired while acquiring the job. Hence the title of this post – Too much information. The short story is this;
An email came in from a prospective client, through my website, asking me to give them a call to discuss a problem they were having with their safe.
Upon calling the client and discussing their problem, it was determined that I could help them with their problem. We then discussed fees, I was given the clients address and a time was setup to meet them at their premises.
The job ended up being pretty simple — the client had caught an object (in this case a coin tube) behind the safe door locking bolt causing a jam — so, the job went smoothly, I were paid and all ended well for everyone.
I bet you’re scratching your head, thinking this sounds pretty routine. Well, you’d be right (which is the reason for this post), but what I’m referring to is when too much information is given out by the client.
All too often do I talk to someone who offers too much information, and they may not even be aware they’re doing it.
Continue reading Too much information
Locksmith scams are out there – preying on those in need. Being aware of them is your first step in not becoming their next victim.
So, what exactly am I talking about — what is a locksmith scam? The tips below will help you spot and avoid them! Continue reading Locksmith scams: don’t be a victim!
You’ve probably heard of the SafeLogic Series from SecuRam Systems Inc., which is their standard electronic locking system for safes.
You may have even heard about the SafeLogic Xtreme, which is their standard electronic locking system, paired with a mechanical 3 number combination lock (referred to as “SpinDial” by SecuRam), producing what is known as a “redundant mechanical safe lock”.
What you may not have heard yet is that SecuRam has now introduced the ProLogic Xtreme, the same redundant mechanical lock offered by their SafeLogic Xtreme, with the advanced features of the ProLogic Series!
Continue reading SecuRam ProLogic Xtreme Safe Lock
Seeing as I haven’t posted much here in a while, I’ll start things off again with a repair that I did to my 2007 Dodge Nitro today…
About a month ago I noticed that my steering wheel was starting to have up and down “play” in it, which seems to have gotten worse this past week. So, today, I decided I’d Google it in case it had already been discussed elsewhere.
Well, that payed off with this thread on nitroforumz.com. What was also noted there was a clicking sound coming from the steering wheel / column — something I had noticed since driving my Nitro off the lot in April 2007. Something that I simply wrote off because it sounded like a spring clicking inside the column, which could have been normal.
Anyway, to make a long story short, here’s some images of how the repair was done (click on any image for a larger view);
Continue reading Dodge Nitro Steering Column Repair
I read what you said about the wires on the Blazer, but mine were not corroded. I took it off and cleaned it up anyway and it came back on, but as soon as I turned the key off she was gone again. I don’t have any lights lighting up on the 4×4 switches. Service 4X4 light is on in the dash. I don’t know what is going on. Any suggestions or advise greatly appreciated.
– 4X4 PROBLEM
Am I glad that I fixed my 4 wheel drive! I’ve needed it a few times this month. The unfortunate part of this update is the fact that I now have a very defined “clunk” in the front differential. Of course, this is just speculation at this point simply by where and when the noise occurs.
The Blazer has a weak point in the transfer case (a snap ring that breaks causing a “grinding” noise), so that was my first thought, but quickly ruled out — it only does it in 4 wheel drive for one. If it were the snap ring, it would grind in 2 wheel drive and get better in 4 wheel, not to mention the noise would be coming from the rear seat floor (where the transfer case is) and not the front end (which is where the front differential is).
Anyway, I have to do a little more diagnostics with the guys over at the garage on a drier day to figure this out. I’ll keep you posted!
Wow! I thought I had updated this post to describe the problem as it was found by the guys at my tranny shop.
I really should get some proper terminology for the parts — anyway, as it was described to me, there is a set of “forks” in the transfer case that control the movement of a gear (gears?) for the various modes (2Hi, 4Lo, 4Hi). The forks have plastic (delron? nylon?) bushings that quickly wear out — this is an inherent problem with the transfer case of my particular year of Blazer — and cause the gears to not fully seat in their proper positions. This means that when you try to switch to 4Hi, it may not go in right away or, for that matter, when shifting to 2Hi it will seem to stay in 4Hi for a period of time, then switch to 2Hi with a “bang”. It may also kick in and out as you drive down the road, as mine did.
Again, I should really find out some more information on this problem. As I have said, I have a tranny shop in the family, so it was repaired and put “on tab”, so I can’t even tell you how much it cost to repair, but I will find out.
Well, today I fixed yet another problem with my 2003 Chevy Blazer 4 Wheel Drive — Friday past, my in-dash 4×4 controls stopped working and hence I could not engage 4 wheel drive. Of course, these things will always happen at the most inconvenient time.
I had to drive to Ottawa, ON (about 5 hours from me) last Friday and, as luck would have it, encountered an ice storm that made driving very treachurous. So, I thought it would be a good idea to engage 4 wheel drive… I pushed the 4 wheel high button and… nothing. No lights on the dash and no 4 wheel drive! What?
I pulled over and checked the fuse — everything was good there, but I decided to change it just in case. Still nothing. After trying everything I could think of, I just had to deal with it and continue on in 2 wheel drive. Every car I passed in the ditch, I just kept praying my 4 wheel drive would come on… but no such luck. The real pisser here is, I tried it that morning and all was fine… now, when I need it, nothing!
Continue reading ’03 Chevy Blazer — where’s my 4 wheel drive? (UPDATED)