I read what you said about the wires on the Blazer, but mine were not corroded. I took it off and cleaned it up anyway and it came back on, but as soon as I turned the key off she was gone again. I don’t have any lights lighting up on the 4×4 switches. Service 4X4 light is on in the dash. I don’t know what is going on. Any suggestions or advise greatly appreciated.
I’m finally getting some pics taken of my progress (which has been relatively slow as I simply have a ton on the go this summer). This weekend past I finished up the frame restoration. Basically, it involved grinding down, spot blasting, cutting out, repairing and painting of the frame. It’s actually done, but I haven’t taken pics of the painted frame yet. Here’s what I do have;
Well, I got the block and heads back, and picked up all the parts needed to rebuild my 305. Here are a couple of pics;
The block after machining.
The crank has been machined and installed, along with the main bearings — this was done for me by the machine shop as I feel this is the most important part of the rebuild process.
The heads, rebuilt and the various parts for rebuilding.
I left the heads wrapped for now as they have been rebuilt and are ready for installation (more on this later!). On the table, you can see (from top left to right) the push rods, piston rod bearings, the rocker nuts are directly under the rod bearings, the lifters, oil pump, piston rings, (working back to the left) timing gears and chain, and finally the rockers and pivots. The three little things you see next to the rocker nuts are actually block plugs… but they are being replaced in the frost plug kit not shown in this pic.
The pistons were cleaned up and the rods resized — ready for installation!
The first thing that I did was cleaned up all the threads within the block with a tap set to make it a) easier to install the bolts, and b) to make sure all bolts are allowed to travel far enough — you don’t want a bolt to stop, due to a rust ring, with the head, for example, not being tightened down. Even though your torque wrench says it’s good, it’s gonna leak.
Next to go in was the camshaft. Simply because there is room to work when the pistons have not yet been installed. Some don’t care, but I like the room to be able to guide the cam in place a little better — you DON’T want to be scrapping up the bearings when you’re putting the cam in! A little assembly lube and in it goes (make sure to lube ALL lobes and bearing points well!).
I’ve got to get the rest of the pics done, so I’ll update this when I can!
Am I glad that I fixed my 4 wheel drive! I’ve needed it a few times this month. The unfortunate part of this update is the fact that I now have a very defined “clunk” in the front differential. Of course, this is just speculation at this point simply by where and when the noise occurs.
The Blazer has a weak point in the transfer case (a snap ring that breaks causing a “grinding” noise), so that was my first thought, but quickly ruled out — it only does it in 4 wheel drive for one. If it were the snap ring, it would grind in 2 wheel drive and get better in 4 wheel, not to mention the noise would be coming from the rear seat floor (where the transfer case is) and not the front end (which is where the front differential is).
Anyway, I have to do a little more diagnostics with the guys over at the garage on a drier day to figure this out. I’ll keep you posted!
Wow! I thought I had updated this post to describe the problem as it was found by the guys at my tranny shop.
I really should get some proper terminology for the parts — anyway, as it was described to me, there is a set of “forks” in the transfer case that control the movement of a gear (gears?) for the various modes (2Hi, 4Lo, 4Hi). The forks have plastic (delron? nylon?) bushings that quickly wear out — this is an inherent problem with the transfer case of my particular year of Blazer — and cause the gears to not fully seat in their proper positions. This means that when you try to switch to 4Hi, it may not go in right away or, for that matter, when shifting to 2Hi it will seem to stay in 4Hi for a period of time, then switch to 2Hi with a “bang”. It may also kick in and out as you drive down the road, as mine did.
Again, I should really find out some more information on this problem. As I have said, I have a tranny shop in the family, so it was repaired and put “on tab”, so I can’t even tell you how much it cost to repair, but I will find out.
Today I started ripping off the body panels and box — leaving just the cab, motor/tranny and frame.
I started with the hood…
Next to come off was the front fenders…
The headlights and grill were removed, along with the passenger side outer-fender… and then the front clip…
Strip down – The rear end…
Next, I started stripping stuff from the rear end. The first thing to go was the box, which was easy enough — cut off the eight bolts that hold the box to the frame and lift it off! (I like to simply cut the old bolts off… I’ve done it a couple of times before and wasted alot of time trying to remove the bolts with heat/penetrating fluid/etc. Besides, I also like to put new stainless bolts back in.)
The shocks were removed, the u-joint for the driveshaft was unbolted and the driveshaft removed…
Well, today I fixed yet another problem with my 2003 Chevy Blazer 4 Wheel Drive — Friday past, my in-dash 4×4 controls stopped working and hence I could not engage 4 wheel drive. Of course, these things will always happen at the most inconvenient time.
I had to drive to Ottawa, ON (about 5 hours from me) last Friday and, as luck would have it, encountered an ice storm that made driving very treachurous. So, I thought it would be a good idea to engage 4 wheel drive… I pushed the 4 wheel high button and… nothing. No lights on the dash and no 4 wheel drive! What?
I pulled over and checked the fuse — everything was good there, but I decided to change it just in case. Still nothing. After trying everything I could think of, I just had to deal with it and continue on in 2 wheel drive. Every car I passed in the ditch, I just kept praying my 4 wheel drive would come on… but no such luck. The real pisser here is, I tried it that morning and all was fine… now, when I need it, nothing!
I picked up a 1985 Chevy Shortbox, Side-Step Pickup truck on November 29th, 2006, that I bought at an auction house 2 and a half hours from my house. Actually, the purchase was not planned at all. My dad drove up North to look at a piece of property for sale and just happened to pass by this auction house and saw the pickup sitting on the lot. To make a long story short, the previous owner had not driven the pickup since 1998 and had tried to sell it at the auction numerous times. It had been up for auction, the weekend before my dad ran across it, and did not sell. He was asking $3,500 (CDN) and that auction was the last of the season for vehicles… he’d have to take it back to storage. Skip to the purchase… my dad is incredible when it comes to bargening… we ended up taking it away for $1,750 (CDN) taxes, licensing and everything else included. Not too bad at all! 😉
So, the weekend I went out for “Saturday Morning Breakfast with the Gang”, my dad and I drove up on Sunday with his 1986 Chevy Shortbox, Step-Side pickup and trailer and picked it up. Let the fun begin!
OK, so I’ve started breaking up this post into smaller, easier to read posts. 🙂 I’ll update the main menu and this post as new entries are made.
Unfortunately, there will be no more updates on this project as it was sold before completion. I ended up having top move and my 1985 Chevy Shortbox, Step-Side Pickup became a casualty. Oh well, hopefully one day I will get to see her finished.