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  • in reply to: Rotten to the core #839
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    Kyle
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    🙂

    in reply to: Blazer Vacuum Switch #843
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    Kyle
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    Glad I could help!

    Kyle

    in reply to: Rotten to the core #596
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    Kyle
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    Who says these vehicles are “rotten to the core”? You? Typical.

    I’m 40 years old — I don’t give a shit what you or anyone else thinks “is cool”. My Blazer was a work vehicle and it was driven hard — for 5 years.

    Actually, the Blazer was one of the best vehicles that I have ever owned. Other than the 4WD problem, I haven’t had any other problems with the vehicle. I just sold it with over 300,000 KMs on it and it passed a legal safety and eTest. The ONLY thing the mechanic could find wrong with it was a license plate marker light. In fact, I sold it to my brother who will continue to drive it (which I wouldn’t do if it was “rotten to the core” — I’d sell it to someone naive, like your son).

    Unless you have lived in a bubble and don’t possess a drivers license, you would understand that if you drive a vehicle it IS going to need maintenance and repair. If you use your dishwasher, it IS going to need maintenance and repair. The Blazer is not unlike any other vehicle. Sure, there are going to be some that were built on a Friday and may have some issues (again, not unlike ANY other vehicle), but on the whole, the Blazer is a dependable vehicle. Yet you come here and read a few stories on a specific topic regarding problems with SOME Blazer 4WD systems and all of a sudden they are “rotten to the core”. If you visit ANY forum for ANY make of vehicle you will find that they too talk about specific problems with that make and model of vehicle. Does that make them “rotten to the core”?

    I also own a Dodge Nitro — a vehicle that is not given a great report by Consumers Reports, yet I have owned it since new (just over 3 years now) and have not had one single problem with it.

    I also own a brand new GMC Yukon XL — I had it back to the dealer in the FIRST MONTH for an idler pulley replacement because it failed. Does that make my Yukon “rotten to the core”?

    As for being my own mechanic — absolutely. Why? Because I can. Because I have the ability to do something that will save me a ton of money by not dishing it out to mechanics charging $75 an hour. You have to think about things a little more and analyze them. Think about this — my mother makes all kinds of things — sewing, knitting, needlepoint. She makes drapes, clothes, furniture coverings, etc. Why does she do this? Because she can. Because she has the ability to do something that she doesn’t have to pay someone else to do. Could she afford to buy these things? Absolutely. Can I afford to take my vehicle to a mechanic? Absolutely. But why?

    There comes a time when you have to sit back and evaluate your vehicle. If your son really has had so many problems with his Blazer, then I would have to say your son should have been smart enough to get rid of that vehicle a long time ago. If your dog bites you, then pees on your carpet, then rips up your furniture… you get rid of the dog. You don’t keep taking him to therapy, thinking it’s going to get better!

    Regards;
    Kyle

    in reply to: 03 Blazer vaccuum actuator #594
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    Kyle
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    Good information there — Thanks, Jeremy!

    Kyle

    in reply to: Don’t buy anymore GM/Chevy garbage #837
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    Kyle
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    Happy to amuse! 😉

    Kyle

    in reply to: THANKS FOR ALL THE INFO! #821
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    Kyle
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    Hi JM;

    Thank you for the thank you! 😉

    I’m glad the information posted here was able to help you solve your problem.

    Regards;
    Kyle

    in reply to: Don’t buy anymore GM/Chevy garbage #590
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    Kyle
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    Well, all I have to say is this;

    1) I drive for a living. I understand that vehicles need maintenance and are under constant wear and tear. The Blazer, other than some electrical problems with the 4WD system, has been one of the best vehicles that I have owned. I have almost 300,000KM on my 2003 and it still drives like the day I drove it off the lot. I haven’t a single complaint in regards to the S-10 Blazer.

    2) You get what you pay for. You bought a $1,500 car. Do you expect it do drive and be like a $15,000 car?

    3) When you’re out of a job, I don’t want to hear it. But hey, at least you’ll be able to drive to the welfare office in your import!

    Kyle

    in reply to: 2001 Blazer ABS light #588
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    Kyle
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    Thanks for the info!

    As for your problem, sorry, I’ve never removed a cable so can’t directly answer your question.

    Regards;
    Kyle

    in reply to: 2001 chevy s-10 zr2 #586
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    Kyle
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    Hi David;

    Sorry, I have no clue either as I am not a mechanic and can only give you the information that I have first hand knowledge of.

    Kyle

    in reply to: 98 sonoma 4 hi #582
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    Kyle
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    Hi Jesse;

    Pulling the cable under the battery will only engage the passengers axle. If the 4WD system is not working to begin with, engaging this axle will do nothing.

    Sounds like the fork that moves your gears in the front differential may be your problem.

    To manually put it in 4WD, get under the truck and disconnect the encoder motor. Once you remove the encoder motor, you should see a “shaft” (for lack of a better term) coming out of the transmission… that is what controls your 4WD. I can’t tell you which way is which as I’ve never done it… but one way goes 4HI, one way goes 4LO and the other is 2HI.

    Good luck.

    Kyle

    in reply to: 4WD buttons blinking code #580
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    Kyle
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    If the blinking is a code, I’m not aware of it.

    Good luck!

    Kyle

    in reply to: 2000 Chevy Blazer #576
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    Kyle
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    Kyle’s reply;

    It’s hard to say without being able to VERIFY that you have everything off/undone that needs to be. The hubs are pretty straight forward — I have done both front hubs on mine with no problems (actually, twice on the passenger side as the NEW hub failed in like 2 months).

    So, the hub won’t come off the axle, or it won’t break free from it’s mating surface? If it’s the first, then that means you have already broken the hub free, no? If the axle won’t come out (you do have the large axle nut off, right?), then put the axle nut back on so the threads are not exposed and give it a good couple of whacks with a good sized hammer (a 2 or 3 pound sledge works well as it has a nice size head so you don’t hit things you don’t want to).

    Good luck!

    Kyle

    in reply to: 1995 chevy blazer lt 4wd #578
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    Kyle
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    Sorry, Austin, but your description of your problem sounds like a hundred others here…there is tons of information here for you to get started. All you have to do is read.

    Kyle

    in reply to: 99 Sonoma #574
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    Kyle
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    Thanks for the information! Hopefully it helps someone out!

    Regards;
    Kyle

    in reply to: 2001 Blazer ABS light #572
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    Kyle
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    Hello Guest;

    Unfortunately, it’s hard to say for sure, the ABS / parking warning light can be a number of things… I’m going through the same thing right now.

    Last week I changed both front wheel bearing assemblies as they are all one unit and contain the ABS sensors. This is what “everyone” said is the number one problem… it may be, but it wasn’t mine. The lights remain. Unfortunately, I couldn’t get it scanned at the time and opted to change the wheel bearings anyway as the vehicle has 270,000KM on it now and the bearings are rated for 128,000KM – 160,000KM — I figure I got the life span of them. 😉

    Anyway, since then I’ve had the vehicle scanned and found the problem to be the ABS pump/module or simple the connections. I should have written it down, but when it was being discussed with my mechanic, it wasn’t an option for fixing at this point (he figures around $1,000… I don’t know for sure as I haven’t looked to much into it). I don’t plan on going any further with it. The lights are on… if it bothers you, I’ll put electrical tape over it. ;D

    As for the parking warning light… I don’t know how much I buy the explanation I got from the mechanic I talked to, but “he said” that the parking warning light will just start coming on after the ABS light has been on for a while. Sounds like he doesn’t really know, so tried to BS me.

    As for your brake smell, from what I understand when researching doing my brakes is that the calipers are prone to sticking after a brake job. What I would do is drive the vehicle until you smell something and then stop, get out and put your hand on the wheels one at a time… even go as far as sticking your fingers through the spokes and feeling the rotors or whatever you can reach… you’ll know if one is extremely hot then this could be your problem.

    Hope this helps.

    Regards;
    Kyle

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 33 total)